The hood is a “cut- out- model” that leaves the creatureīs ears sticking out. It is closed under the face to disguise the puppeteerīs neck.
Applying the black ground directly on open- pored foam is the least eypensive way to colour an object but is also an arduous task; and the result is not very long- lasting. The foam in itself will also tear easily. Better to close the surfaceīs pores before painting. Method one would be applying a coat of Pattex. Wait till is dry enough to touch it, then press it, thereby closing the pores and creating an even surface that can be painted with acrylics without further problems. This procedure will also prevent the foam from becoming brittle, thus extending the maskīs lifespan. This surface is not tearproof, though.
Best method to achieve an even, paintable, still slightly flexible and very tearproof surface takes one day longer but isnīt even expensive: Glue // cloth// glue.
Cover the foam with glue (in Germany it would be named D3 - waterproof and transparently drying) and plaster it with pieces of the thinnest cloth you can find- a neckerchief is well suited for that. Then a second layer of glue on top. When dry, it can be painted as usual. I did this with the mask during a make- over ten years later: foam-sealing
Painting techniques are rough shading and drybrush in three steps. See which parts are dark and which are light. When during painting yout think you might be too light, youīre still too dark.
The area around the puppeteers eyes should be blackened, but we need the eyes to be seen, so no morphmask this time. Nevertheless I generally recommend to wear a balaclava under any mask.