Above left: now the actual surface is created with air drying modelling clay. It is not necessary to smoothen it completely- the compositeīs cloth will do the job later.
Above right: clingfilm. It dosnīt show up clearly, but the clay surface has been covered with clingfilm because otherwise the composite will adhere to the model, thus making it very difficult to dislocate.
The clingfilm wonīt adhere voluntarily to the surface- a layer of glue helps it along.
footnote; 1 year later:
Meanwhile I renounce the clingfilm and just tape all surfaces that will later be covered with composite. Should have done it here also...
Firstly tape sticks much better to the model than glued clingfilm and second a taped surface makes a much smoother underside of the composite than building composite onto clingfilm.
Below: helmet number 2 (a lighter variant for hot weather; this form tapers off at the back and the helmet gets more air- permeable cloth at the sides.
On the left pic below see the helmetīs upper side made of air- drying clay (erroneously bought in two colours) on the right the taped form onto which the composite will be built directly.